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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.